It is not an easy decision where to spend the 5 days until our next appointment at the Mogamma, since all places in Egypt are wonderful, we want to be everywhere at the same time. But after some discussion, we decide to go to the white desert. We went there often before, but we still love it. So we leave to Baharyia, the first of the 4 oases on the way to Luxor.
Nothing changed over the last years in this lovely laid back oasis. As usual, we go to our old “popular restaurant” to have tea, it is as if we came here two weeks ago, not two years ago (Andrea and Markus: still “mafish cappuccino innaharda”). It’s a lovely place, where everybody has to pass by, and we meet two guys from South Africa who make the same trip as us, but are already on their way to Assuan… they tell us it 
took them a whole week to get their car out of the customs in Cairo, which makes us very suspicious about what is still lying ahead of us. Some more visits to the Mogamma and to customs???
We were always dreaming of crossing the desert from Siwa (very close to the Libyan boarder) to Baharyia, which always failed due to the missing permission from Cairo. This time we find out that it’s possible to make it in one day, if we get the permission in Baharyia. Again permission, documents, papers… In deed it costs us some patience and long hours of waiting (but we are experienced now after our visit at the Mogamma), but finally, late at night, we are informed that we get the permission! We just have to go with 2 other cars and a policeman – due to security reasons. The next morning we arrive at the meeting point 30 minutes too early, German as we are… the other two cars arrive late and when, after 1 ½ hours, the policeman still doesn’t have any idea where to sit in the 3 completely full cars, we are allowed to leave without police.
Reading about the trip in the travel guides, it sounds like travelling through hell, no road, in the middle of nowhere, very difficult… but in the end, the 420 kilometres are not that bad. 
Exactly when the sun sets, we arrive in Siwa and are so happy that we finally made this trip that has been a dream during the last years. Looking for a place to camp we learn that it needs another permission (!!!) to enter the desert. Permission, permission, permission, permission… Not being in the mood for another permission, we head for the desert in the dark and put our tent just somewhere – it’s always funny and interesting to wake up in the morning not knowing where… it happened to us before that we were sleeping in the middle of a street. But this time it’s nice to wake up with a lovely view over Siwa.
We spend the day in Siwa, the weather is not very nice, but we enjoy the old city, the nice coffee shops, Cleopatra’s bath and the atmosphere which is very special. You almost see no car, just donkeys and bicycles. It’s as if time stood still over the last 100 years.
Unfortunately, we cannot go back to our place in the evening, since another sandstorm came up and we have to hide between the palm trees to escape the worst. So we spend the second night surrounded by trees, and the shaking trees make a scary noise during the whole night.
When we leave the next morning to the north coast (the Mediterranean Sea), it’s still stormy, but the sky is blue and we arrive in Marsa Matrouh after 3 hours of driving on the most boring road in the world. 300 kilometres without any turn, without any tree, just straight ahead – and only 90 km/h are allowed!
We eat some fresh grilled fish and seafood in Marsa Matrouh and continue in the direction of Alexandria. When we are looking for a place to sleep between the sand dunes, a police car is following us, blocking our way, and 4 policemen jump out of the car, pointing at us with their Kalashnikovs. First we think that is the end now, but after explaining to them that we are no drug dealers coming from Libya, they let us go, but don’t allow us to stay in the desert, since they claim it’s too dangerous.
But 50 kilometres later, we give it a second try and find a nice place close to the sea. The wind is still so strong that we are happy to find an old little stone hut that protects us from the storm. Immediately a farmer family comes to say hi and brings us fresh baked bread and we spend a nice time talking with them.
Nothing changed over the last years in this lovely laid back oasis. As usual, we go to our old “popular restaurant” to have tea, it is as if we came here two weeks ago, not two years ago (Andrea and Markus: still “mafish cappuccino innaharda”). It’s a lovely place, where everybody has to pass by, and we meet two guys from South Africa who make the same trip as us, but are already on their way to Assuan… they tell us it 
took them a whole week to get their car out of the customs in Cairo, which makes us very suspicious about what is still lying ahead of us. Some more visits to the Mogamma and to customs???
Later we put our tent exactly at our old place in the desert – it’s like coming home. And even though we were “spoiled” over the last 2 weeks with good food and hotel luxury, we enjoy the life in the desert immediately…
We were always dreaming of crossing the desert from Siwa (very close to the Libyan boarder) to Baharyia, which always failed due to the missing permission from Cairo. This time we find out that it’s possible to make it in one day, if we get the permission in Baharyia. Again permission, documents, papers… In deed it costs us some patience and long hours of waiting (but we are experienced now after our visit at the Mogamma), but finally, late at night, we are informed that we get the permission! We just have to go with 2 other cars and a policeman – due to security reasons. The next morning we arrive at the meeting point 30 minutes too early, German as we are… the other two cars arrive late and when, after 1 ½ hours, the policeman still doesn’t have any idea where to sit in the 3 completely full cars, we are allowed to leave without police.
Reading about the trip in the travel guides, it sounds like travelling through hell, no road, in the middle of nowhere, very difficult… but in the end, the 420 kilometres are not that bad. 
We enjoy the trip and the company of the others and finally understand why it’s important to have TWO spare tires: one of the other Toyotas has 3 flat tires at the same time and he is more than happy about our equipment. He even tries to use one of our spare tires, which turns out to be too big, and the car looks like limping, but at least we make it to the next break…
Exactly when the sun sets, we arrive in Siwa and are so happy that we finally made this trip that has been a dream during the last years. Looking for a place to camp we learn that it needs another permission (!!!) to enter the desert. Permission, permission, permission, permission… Not being in the mood for another permission, we head for the desert in the dark and put our tent just somewhere – it’s always funny and interesting to wake up in the morning not knowing where… it happened to us before that we were sleeping in the middle of a street. But this time it’s nice to wake up with a lovely view over Siwa.
We spend the day in Siwa, the weather is not very nice, but we enjoy the old city, the nice coffee shops, Cleopatra’s bath and the atmosphere which is very special. You almost see no car, just donkeys and bicycles. It’s as if time stood still over the last 100 years.
Unfortunately, we cannot go back to our place in the evening, since another sandstorm came up and we have to hide between the palm trees to escape the worst. So we spend the second night surrounded by trees, and the shaking trees make a scary noise during the whole night.
When we leave the next morning to the north coast (the Mediterranean Sea), it’s still stormy, but the sky is blue and we arrive in Marsa Matrouh after 3 hours of driving on the most boring road in the world. 300 kilometres without any turn, without any tree, just straight ahead – and only 90 km/h are allowed!
We eat some fresh grilled fish and seafood in Marsa Matrouh and continue in the direction of Alexandria. When we are looking for a place to sleep between the sand dunes, a police car is following us, blocking our way, and 4 policemen jump out of the car, pointing at us with their Kalashnikovs. First we think that is the end now, but after explaining to them that we are no drug dealers coming from Libya, they let us go, but don’t allow us to stay in the desert, since they claim it’s too dangerous.
But 50 kilometres later, we give it a second try and find a nice place close to the sea. The wind is still so strong that we are happy to find an old little stone hut that protects us from the storm. Immediately a farmer family comes to say hi and brings us fresh baked bread and we spend a nice time talking with them.
On our way to Alexandria, we finally visit the Military Museum of the 2nd world war in El Alamein, which gives a good overview about Rommel’s battle in 1942. We are also shocked by all the new hotels that are built along the north coast, as well as by the ones being already dilapidated…
We think all the gear which we use today when going in the desert was invented at that time.
We think all the gear which we use today when going in the desert was invented at that time.
It was a lovely trip but nevertheless we are happy to be back in Cairo, in the same little hotel in Maadi, hoping for the next day to finally get our visa extension at the Mogamma…
So fare we drove 2993 km in Egypt, which brings us to a total of 10166 km since we left Dubai.
So fare we drove 2993 km in Egypt, which brings us to a total of 10166 km since we left Dubai.
hi Thomas & Claudia
ReplyDeleteIt looks as though you are having a great adventure. I am looking forward to welcome you to South Africa!
Malan